Jim’s Razorback Pizza3501 Old Greenwood Road, Ste. 17 Fort Smith, AR 72703 479.434.3455 www.razorbackpizza.com
We “reviewed” Jim’s Razorback Pizza via Twitter in those distant days when the Fort Smith Eats blog was just a glimmer in your father’s eye, as Mom used to say. But we figure it’s worth revisiting now what we thought then. Back then, after all, there were but a few dozen of you following us. Now, you are legion.
Razorback Pizza is a long-standing (30+ years, 20+ locations) Arkansas strip mall institution, but it’s new to Fort Smith this year. It’s a low-key anything-goes place on Old Greenwood Road. Razorback stuff on the walls, natch, though not too much of it. You’re likely to see families here, or ABF’ers on their lunch break, or couples, or a pack of guys watching the game. Like we said, anything goes.
It’s a no-frills pizza joint where anything goes. You’re not going to break the bank here. We’ve never had a check we thought was too high.
Let’s start with the salad bar, because you should. We ‘Mericans need to be eating more roughage, we all know it. But you see a short little island of salad bar in the middle of this no-frills pizza joint, admit it, you’re probably not making a beeline to it.
That’d be a mistake. Razorback’s salad bar is tiny but great. We can never tell which ingredients we’re going to find. Besides the standards, there are usually a few higher end surprises like sundried tomatoes or artichoke hearts or crumbled feta. Plus, Razorback puts some effort into making it all look appealing.
Call us freaks, but we like some raisins or cranberries on the salad bar. That sweetness in the salad counteracting the rest of it, great. Please just a little container of some dried fruity goodness.
Yeah, that’s all the ranting we’re going to do.
So far as we can tell, Jim’s is the first local pizza place to offer online ordering! We luv the interwebs!
What not to order:
They have a nice number of pastas and sandwiches, but we haven’t tried them. Does anyone? Who really goes into a pizza place craving sandwiches anyway? Maybe they’re a revelation in pasta- and sandwich-making. We couldn’t say. Having tamed down our appetite with salad, we’re all about the pizza.
What to order:
If you like starters at a pizza joint, don’t miss the oven-baked boneless buffalo wings. They are spicy-but-not-inferno-hot and delicious and not even messy. Our only complaint is that you need two orders because one order isn’t enough for our buffalo appetite.
Onto the pizza. If pizza shape is important to you, order carefully. Some of Razorback’s pizzas are typical round pies, the way God intended them. Others, you won’t know until they bring them to the table, are warped freaks of pizzadom that come out in big pizza rectangles. For some people, this is going to be a dealbreaker. For others like Fort Smith Eats, it’s going to be mentally disturbing until we remember we’re hungry and set to eating said disfigurement with relish.
No, not actual relish. Though if you order the cheeseburger pizza, you’re not far off. This deep-dish pizza eschews any trace of Italian red sauce in favor of hamburger toppings like ground beef, bacon, onions, mustard, “ketchup sauce” and, yes, pickles. Dill pickles on a pizza shouldn’t work, and perhaps wouldn’t if the pizza were round. But in this whacked-out alternative universe, Rectangular Pickle Pizza actually tastes pretty satisfying. (Note: this is because it just tastes like a cheeseburger, but a whacked-out bunless, rectangular-pizza-shaped one.)
Razorback does offer quite a few other specialty pizzas including some interesting ones like Bar-B-Q, Philly Steak, Alfredo Razorchicken (razors not included), Buffalo Chicken, and Spanish Pie. The toppings include all the standards, with a few others like shrimp or philly cheesesteak or Colby cheese to mix it up. Deep dish, hand-tossed or thin crust are all good.
We’re also a fan of the whole-wheat deep dish. Yeah, yeah, it sounds healthy and all. But add enough cheese and delish, and you’ll negate the whole-wheat fiber quotient.
You don’t go into Razorback pizza expecting to find the best pizza you’ve ever had in your life and you probably don’t leave having found it. But within a few days or few weeks, you’ll be back again. And again. And again. At the end of the day, it’s reliably good and affordable pizza. Sometimes that’s everything.